Dismantling the engine

A parcel arrived from EliseParts. Fantastic service, only 5 days to get here from the UK. In the package were a new radiator and a socket for the head bolts. The radiator is all aluminium, and will replace the standard one which has plastic end caps that are prone to popping off. Also included was a new "ladder" into which the head bolts screw. The new one is thicker, therefore stronger and helps prevent warping of the head and block. Important in an engine prone to blowing head gaskets!

With the new socket I was able to undo the head bolts and pull the head off. The pistons have a little carbon on the tops but are otherwise in good condition. There was a little surface rust on the bores due to water from cleaning getting in through the slightly open valves.

As the pistons run in liners which can move, I have clamped them in place while I clean the tops using makeshift clamps from the old head bolts, some tubing and washers.

Cleaning and dismantling

With the engine out, I had to remove the clutch and flywheel and the gearbox. With that done i could mount it on the engine stand. I also cleaned the engine, and removed the cam belt cover, the rear of which had a hole in it, which looks like it was both worn and melted. Something else to replace.

Hole in the cam belt cover. Not sure what has caused it but there's no other damage.

I removed the cam cover and the condition of the camshafts is excellent. Seems a shame to take it all apart when it is such good condition. :-( I took off the cam belt, tensioner and cam pulleys, but can't go much further. I have ordered the correct socket to remove the cylinder head bolts, so won't do much more work on the engine until it arrives.

I started on the new upgraded tie rods, fitting the strengthening pieces to the rear subframe and the upright.

Above is the new bracket loosely fitted to the upright (it's the black bit at the bottom!). Below is the strengthening plate on the rear subframe.

The Engine is Out

I put in a couple of warm hours (at least it wasn't as hot as it has been) in the garage last night and removed the driveshafts, gear cables and engine mounts. It seems the way to remove the driveshafts from the gearbox is with brute force!

I set up The engine hoist that Marty lent me and attached it on to the inlet and exhaust manifold studs. After about 20 minutes of careful lifting of the engine and lowering of the chassis, the engine was out!

It's now on the ground waiting for the gearbox to be removed so it can be put on the engine stand. I may try and do that tonight.

The engine and gearbox are a little dirtier than I expected but not bad for an engine that is almost 16 years old. There is obviously at least one small oil leak but whether it's enough to worry about I hope to find out soon. I expect the engine and box the clean up nicely as the engine bay is protected by the under tray and so there's not much dirt around, just oil.

The empty engine bay:

The engine out and waiting to be cleaned separated from the gearbox and fitted to the stand.

The rebuild begins - taking it apart

The garage has been cleared out, the bike is now in its new home outside under the bike port, so despite today's 37 degree heat (98f) I decided to start the process of stripping the car.

It's now up on stands and the wheel arch liners are out.

I bought some "magic" sponges after recommendations on the Lotus forum and had a quick test of their ability to clean the aluminium of the chassis and under tray. They work well with just a little soapy water, but wear out quickly so I'll need some more.

Rear clam removed showing the aluminium chassis

The rear clam. I managed to remove it without any assistance!

The boot panel has been removed. Next task is to start disconnecting the driveshafts, exhaust manifold and various pipes and wiring loom from the engine so it can be removed.

Slow Progress

Progress over the past couple of weeks has mostly been on the garage. I have moved my work bench and tools from the shed to the garage, and  have fitted new lights in the garage, so work can commence!

I still have a few parts to order but they won't be needed until I start to put the car back together - a new aluminium radiator, revised cooling pipework and a more modern, stiffer "ladder to bolt the cylinder head bolts into. Not sure if I will order these before Christmas or wait until after the postage rush that happens this time of year.

I've also bought some steel to make a shelter for my motorbike, meaning more room in the garage. It will also provide some cover for the front and rear bodywork, meaning more space in the garage!

Early Photos and earlier upgrades

Here are a couple of photos taken when I first bought the car.

Since owning the car I have changed or upgraded:

• The suspension ball-joints
• Wheel bearings
• Shock absorbers to later Series 2 spec Bilsteins
• EliseParts stainless steel 6-inch silencer
• EliseParts stainless steel exhaust manifold
• 52mm throttle body

Tyres are currently Yokohama A050 R-spec tyres which work very well on track, not so well in the wet. 

I recently added some stripes to give a bit of drama and make the car more visible:

Head arrives and power measured

I've owned my 1997 Lotus Elise Series 1 for almost 5 years. It replaced a Westfield that I build and drove for 3 years.

Being an early model is has MMC brakes, aluminium uprights and rubber floor mats. On the scales at the local track it weighed 730kg.

It's a weekend driver, and I also compete in local sprints and "superkhanas".

In the time I've owned the car I've replaced the wheel bearings, Koni shocks for S2 Bilsteins, the exhaust was replaced with an EliseParts system with a std cat.

After lots of investigation I decided to go for a modest power hike to help keep me ahead of the competition in the sprints, and for more fun.

I like Honda engines, and was really keen to swap in a K20 from the Civic Type R, but the LinkUp conversion agents are in Sydney, 2500 miles away. I didn't fancy hacking the chassis to get a Stark kit in, plus getting hold of a decent K20 is increasingly difficult. I also contacted Essex Austosport about the Duratec conversion, but that didn't seem ideal, either.

So, I decided to go for a modest (initial) hike in power and Dave Andrews at DVA in the UK has built me a K13 kit on a new head. This gives me a good base to work from, so I can upgrade more with ITB's and go towards 180hp later. Hopefully the new head will be here during November. I plan to do the work myself over the summer (southern hemisphere!). I already have a new lighter flywheel, new clutch, upgraded tie rods, ball joints and magic sponges ready to go. I'll also be adding a new radiator, water pump, lower cooling hose conversion (I have the older "up-n-over" cooling system) and new oil rail/ladder.

From the DVA Power website:

Includes a fully ported big valve cylinder head with larger REC inlet and exhaust valves and new inlet guides, the head is fitted with Piper fast road cams and Piper springs to allow later fitment of more aggressive cams if desired. The head must be provided by the customer and as modified  flows enough air for 200BHP so is ideal when later upgrades are planned. Gives large gains in torque and much better drivability. Works with the standard S2 ECU.
Work to the cylinder head includes extensive porting to both inlet and exhaust ports, heavy modification to the combustion chamber , radiused valve seats and tapered guides. The valves are stainless steel and tufftrided and fully lapped to the seats. Inlet valve size is 29.5mm and exhaust size is 26mm. The valve springs will accomodate all cams up to 11.5mm lift.
Recent examples have given more than 160BHP and over 140lb/ft of torque.

This is what the new head looks like: 

I'll show some comparison photos with the old head when I've taken it off.

At the dynamometer today, before fitting the new head, we recorded 118.8 bhp at the wheels, not bad for an engine that originally produced 118 bhp at the crank.